Thanks,
Lee
Can I monitor the cpu core temp with the mx2? Help
Can I monitor the cpu core temp with the mx2? Help
I plan to use the mx211 as a fan controller and temp monitor. Can I monitor the cpu core with the matrix orbital temp probes. They look kind of fat for such an installation i.e. unlike those flat probes we're used to seeing. How would I go about installing the probes for this specific application? Furthermore, how are they installed in a general sense for other apps such video card, etc.?
Thanks,
Lee
Thanks,
Lee
Temp probe installation
If I use MBM to get a core temp how can I route that info to the lcd for display?
Also, what are valide temp probe applications? Where should I install them?
Thanks,
Lee
Also, what are valide temp probe applications? Where should I install them?
Thanks,
Lee
I use MBM5 to get the CPU temperature from one of the motherboard sensors. This would be your best choice. You can display this temperature on the LCD display and use it to control the CPU fan. I added three Matrix Orbital temperature probes, one in front of the front intake fans to measure the room air temperature, a second just above the CPU cooler to measure the interior case air temperature, and a third I thermo-epoxied to the bottom of the video card heat sink.
I have a MX212 and use one advanced GPO to control the CPU fan with a target CPU temperature of 120degF (I also have a video card cooler on the same fan control). A second advanced GPO controls the two front intake fans and the rear exhaust fan with a target case air temperature of 88degF. The third advanced GPO controls the top (blowhole) exhaust fan with a target case air temperature of 89degF (this fan is the loudest so I have it kick in as a last resort). I would have used the temperature probe on the video card heat sink to control the video card cooler, if I had another advanced GPO available, but my current configuration is working out just great.
If you are using the LCD display to control the CPU fan, you need to make sure that the LCD display is always powered (by soldering a jumper), the CPU fan is set to a reasonable default speed for when you are not logged in, and both MBM5 and LCDC are always running when you are logged in.
I have a MX212 and use one advanced GPO to control the CPU fan with a target CPU temperature of 120degF (I also have a video card cooler on the same fan control). A second advanced GPO controls the two front intake fans and the rear exhaust fan with a target case air temperature of 88degF. The third advanced GPO controls the top (blowhole) exhaust fan with a target case air temperature of 89degF (this fan is the loudest so I have it kick in as a last resort). I would have used the temperature probe on the video card heat sink to control the video card cooler, if I had another advanced GPO available, but my current configuration is working out just great.
If you are using the LCD display to control the CPU fan, you need to make sure that the LCD display is always powered (by soldering a jumper), the CPU fan is set to a reasonable default speed for when you are not logged in, and both MBM5 and LCDC are always running when you are logged in.
Probes
Thanks for the tips. I think I'll probably just run the cpu fan full. I don't really want to do any soldering on my component as its really beyond my level of expertise A couple of questions?
Your vid card proabe is thermo expoxied. How did you secure the others?
About how difficult is it to program the events that will control the fans?
Do you know . . . is the probe that matrix orbital is distributing the dallas DS18S20?
Thanks,
Lee
Your vid card proabe is thermo expoxied. How did you secure the others?
About how difficult is it to program the events that will control the fans?
Do you know . . . is the probe that matrix orbital is distributing the dallas DS18S20?
Thanks,
Lee
We don't sell the DS18S20 probes by them selfs, but we do offer temperature probes that are complete and together for $9.95...
http://matrixorbital.com/pages/accessor ... ?CurPage=6
http://matrixorbital.com/pages/accessor ... ?CurPage=6
Henry J.
President
Matrix Orbital
President
Matrix Orbital
Good eye Henry
Thanks for the info. Good to know you keep a sharp eye on the forums and answer even the little questions.
thanks again,
Lee
I use one temperature probe to measure input air temperature. I have a Cooler Master case that has two intake fans on the front. I mounted it on the front between the fans on a flat surface using double sided foam tape and with a cable tie wrap around the probe cable and case fan bracket. It is positioned so that the tip of the probe is out somewhat in the air flow. This probe is not used to control fans.
The second probe is mounted directly above the CPU cooler fan to measure the air feeding the CPU cooler. I used cable tie wraps to tie it to a plastic rod that I mounted across that part of the case in order to position it just above the CPU cooler. This probe is used to control the two intake fans and rear exhaust fan with a target temperature of 88 degF, and the top exhaust fan with a target temperature of 89 degF.
Actually, each installation is probably somewhat a custom one depending on your case layout and where you want to put the probes.
Programming the MX2 and LCDC for fans controlled for a target temperature is easy once you learn the basics of the LCDC program.
The probes I use are the completed ones sold by Matrix Orbital. I ordered my display directly from them so I was sure to get the latest hardware version.
The second probe is mounted directly above the CPU cooler fan to measure the air feeding the CPU cooler. I used cable tie wraps to tie it to a plastic rod that I mounted across that part of the case in order to position it just above the CPU cooler. This probe is used to control the two intake fans and rear exhaust fan with a target temperature of 88 degF, and the top exhaust fan with a target temperature of 89 degF.
Actually, each installation is probably somewhat a custom one depending on your case layout and where you want to put the probes.
Programming the MX2 and LCDC for fans controlled for a target temperature is easy once you learn the basics of the LCDC program.
The probes I use are the completed ones sold by Matrix Orbital. I ordered my display directly from them so I was sure to get the latest hardware version.
ahhh tape . . .
Excellent.
Thanks you for the detailed information on or your install. I don't know why by I hadn't even thought of two-sided tape. I guess I wanted to reinvent the wheel. These simple tips will help alot.
Perhaps you have an opinion on the following. This does stray of topic a bit so fell free to ignore it. I have the coolermaster atc-210. It is a bit fan challenged, shall we say. I has only two 80mm sock fans(an exhaust at the back and a blow-hole fan which I believe must be intake at top-if it's not I don't know where the case would get fresh air). I plan to get the pre modded side window and mod another 80mm fan into the side of the case. I just trying to develop a workable air flow design. As you have a similar, coolermaster are generally the same frame with different facades and holes in different places - I wonder if you have any advisments about developing a flow pattern for this case.
P.S. What about snaking a probe out back to get actual ambient air temp? This way you can tell if the room temp is part of the problem.
P.P.S. What do you base your target temp of 88deg. on?
Thanks you for the detailed information on or your install. I don't know why by I hadn't even thought of two-sided tape. I guess I wanted to reinvent the wheel. These simple tips will help alot.
Perhaps you have an opinion on the following. This does stray of topic a bit so fell free to ignore it. I have the coolermaster atc-210. It is a bit fan challenged, shall we say. I has only two 80mm sock fans(an exhaust at the back and a blow-hole fan which I believe must be intake at top-if it's not I don't know where the case would get fresh air). I plan to get the pre modded side window and mod another 80mm fan into the side of the case. I just trying to develop a workable air flow design. As you have a similar, coolermaster are generally the same frame with different facades and holes in different places - I wonder if you have any advisments about developing a flow pattern for this case.
P.S. What about snaking a probe out back to get actual ambient air temp? This way you can tell if the room temp is part of the problem.
P.P.S. What do you base your target temp of 88deg. on?
My original case on my Gateway 700XL system only had a 120mm exhaust fan on the rear, which did not help much keeping the interior air temperature low under a full gamming load. With the original CPU cooler, the CPU temperature under load would run about 145 degF. With the Cooler Master case and a better Zalman CPU cooler, the CPU temperature never gets over 127 degF.
I only like the Cooler Master cases that have the two intake fans on the front. Your case is really a different design. The blowhole fan should be an exhaust fan (heat rises). The problem with only exhaust fans is it creates a vacuum in the case and you get little dust bunnies at ever case opening. If you get decent air flow from the intakes in the lower part of the case you might be OK, but measuring the interior air temperature will tell. If you are not running a heavy load like gamming, it probably is not a problem.
I do not need an exterior probe because the probe at the air intake of my case measures basically the same temperature, although it does run a little higher if the fans are running at a low speed. I did this so I could measure room air temperature but not have the probe sticking outside.
The reason that I use 88 degF and 89 degF as temperature targets is this has proven to be a temperature that I can maintain and without the fans running full speed. Under a non-gamming load my I usually get:
Fans Speed Temp
C PU 25% 108 degF
Case 25-50% 88 degF
Blowhole 0%
Under a gamming load I usually get:
Fans Speed Temp
C PU 100% 127 degF
Case 100% 89 degF
Blowhole 0-50%
In other words, the fans only spin up and generate the most noise when I need the extra cooling.
I only like the Cooler Master cases that have the two intake fans on the front. Your case is really a different design. The blowhole fan should be an exhaust fan (heat rises). The problem with only exhaust fans is it creates a vacuum in the case and you get little dust bunnies at ever case opening. If you get decent air flow from the intakes in the lower part of the case you might be OK, but measuring the interior air temperature will tell. If you are not running a heavy load like gamming, it probably is not a problem.
I do not need an exterior probe because the probe at the air intake of my case measures basically the same temperature, although it does run a little higher if the fans are running at a low speed. I did this so I could measure room air temperature but not have the probe sticking outside.
The reason that I use 88 degF and 89 degF as temperature targets is this has proven to be a temperature that I can maintain and without the fans running full speed. Under a non-gamming load my I usually get:
Fans Speed Temp
C PU 25% 108 degF
Case 25-50% 88 degF
Blowhole 0%
Under a gamming load I usually get:
Fans Speed Temp
C PU 100% 127 degF
Case 100% 89 degF
Blowhole 0-50%
In other words, the fans only spin up and generate the most noise when I need the extra cooling.
[quote=
only like the Cooler Master cases that have the two intake fans on the front. Your case is really a different design. The blowhole fan should be an exhaust fan (heat rises). The problem with only exhaust fans is it creates a vacuum in the case and you get little dust bunnies at ever case opening. If you get decent air flow from the intakes in the lower part of the case you might be OK, but measuring the interior air temperature will tell. If you are not running a heavy load like gamming, it probably is not a problem.
The reason that I use 88 degF and 89 degF as temperature targets is this has proven to be a temperature that I can maintain and without the fans running full speed. Under a non-gamming load my I usually get:
Fans Speed Temp
C PU 25% 108 degF
Case 25-50% 88 degF
Blowhole 0%
Under a gamming load I usually get:
Fans Speed Temp
C PU 100% 127 degF
Case 100% 89 degF
Blowhole 0-50%
In other words, the fans only spin up and generate the most noise when I need the extra cooling.[/quote]
The top blowhole is an exhaust. Coolermaster opted for pure asthetics with the case over functionality. It has an arcryllic door over the entire front fascia which prevents any intake fans there. I picked up the case when I was quite green and didn't really understand how important those front intakes were. I just thought it was a great case - I still do except for that one shortcoming.
Im not running a stock cooler. I've got a thermalrigh sk-7 with tt smartmfan on my xp2700
The kind of fan temp to fan control you've got is precisely what I'm going for. I'll be running a full game load sometimes along with other heavy aps. With that in mind I'll be modding a 120mm intake into the side panel of the case. This should balance the air flow - though I'll not really know what voltages to set for the fans until the machine is up. After some testing in this regard I hope to get a setup going rather like yours i.e. The MX monitors temps and spins up my fans to accomodate the higher temperatures.
Do you ever adjust your fans manually with the lcd unit?
only like the Cooler Master cases that have the two intake fans on the front. Your case is really a different design. The blowhole fan should be an exhaust fan (heat rises). The problem with only exhaust fans is it creates a vacuum in the case and you get little dust bunnies at ever case opening. If you get decent air flow from the intakes in the lower part of the case you might be OK, but measuring the interior air temperature will tell. If you are not running a heavy load like gamming, it probably is not a problem.
The reason that I use 88 degF and 89 degF as temperature targets is this has proven to be a temperature that I can maintain and without the fans running full speed. Under a non-gamming load my I usually get:
Fans Speed Temp
C PU 25% 108 degF
Case 25-50% 88 degF
Blowhole 0%
Under a gamming load I usually get:
Fans Speed Temp
C PU 100% 127 degF
Case 100% 89 degF
Blowhole 0-50%
In other words, the fans only spin up and generate the most noise when I need the extra cooling.[/quote]
The top blowhole is an exhaust. Coolermaster opted for pure asthetics with the case over functionality. It has an arcryllic door over the entire front fascia which prevents any intake fans there. I picked up the case when I was quite green and didn't really understand how important those front intakes were. I just thought it was a great case - I still do except for that one shortcoming.
Im not running a stock cooler. I've got a thermalrigh sk-7 with tt smartmfan on my xp2700
The kind of fan temp to fan control you've got is precisely what I'm going for. I'll be running a full game load sometimes along with other heavy aps. With that in mind I'll be modding a 120mm intake into the side panel of the case. This should balance the air flow - though I'll not really know what voltages to set for the fans until the machine is up. After some testing in this regard I hope to get a setup going rather like yours i.e. The MX monitors temps and spins up my fans to accomodate the higher temperatures.
Do you ever adjust your fans manually with the lcd unit?
I put together a couple LCD screens to manually adjust (%PWM) and monitor the fan speeds when I was first setting everything up. However the MX2 does such a good job of controlling the fans automatically using the temperature probes that I do not have do anything except occationally monitor the LCD screens to see that everything is OK.
Yes, a stratigically placed intake fan would help. Also, if you spend much on moding your case to get what you want, keep in mind that the new Cooler Master cases are getting cheaper. You can get the new Praetorian PAC-T01 from newegg.com for $125.
Yes, a stratigically placed intake fan would help. Also, if you spend much on moding your case to get what you want, keep in mind that the new Cooler Master cases are getting cheaper. You can get the new Praetorian PAC-T01 from newegg.com for $125.
Agreed. If I had it to do over again I'd probably snag a praetorian, which is basically the 210 without the door and the front fan array. However, I'm sort of invested in this now, I like the clean fron bezel and door, and I really look at it as a learning experience - I've never cut a blowhole before. I'm looking forward to it. Anyway thanks for the help.
Lee
Lee